(previous)
“When I moved to Milton, I was shocked that there were no restaurants, no bars. There was nowhere really to go,” said Marathas. “I eyed this location and I said, ‘Oh, this would be perfect,’ because it’s right on the Milton [Canton] line, and it would be almost like a Milton restaurant, which I think is desperately needed.”
Marathas knows what he’s talking about, since he’s been in the restaurant business almost all his life. His family owned Nick’s Place in Canton, where he worked for over 25 years. He ran that restaurant for 18 years, and from there he built, owned and operated four CenterField’s restaurants. He still owns the Canton location, at 2 Forge Pond Road, and he and his staff will be running both restaurants.
Suffolk Grille takes its name from the historical flavor of its location, across the street from The Doty Tavern, the original spot where the Suffolk Resolves was drawn up. The tavern was torn down, and an Episcopal church now sits in its place.
Marathas fully embraced the history and hired Rhode Island artist Ron Dabelle to tell the story on the walls of the grille. Beautifully hand-painted murals grace the restaurant, depicting the story of the struggles of declaring freedom right in our own backyard. The full story, with some assistance from the Milton Historical Society, is told on the first page of the restaurant’s wine list.
But enough about old news. The excitement is about the wonderful cuisine being served inside.
“We describe this as an upscale steak-and-seafood restaurant,” Marathas said.
Diners will hardly recognize the newly renovated space, which was recently a sports bar. Marathas hired Milton contractor Paul Sullivan, of Norfolk Development, to divide the restaurant into two sections and add dramatic architectural details such as moldings, a fireplace and granite-topped bar areas. The bar side still offers the sports-bar feel, with several TVs tuned to local sporting events. Upholstered booths, table linens and pleasing color schemes flow throughout the restaurant to add an elegant touch.
So, how’s the food?
On a recent visit just days after its opening, I dined with my husband, our 12-year-old daughter and her cousin.
We started out with an assortment of appetizers, ranging in price from $8 to $10, which included boneless Buffalo tenders (spicy, with veggies and bleu cheese dressing at-the-ready); angus beef sliders (yummy); baked stuffed mushrooms (just the right consistency); seared scallops crustini (my husband raved over them); and some of the best crab cakes I have ever tasted (with a special bistro sauce that also goes nicely with onion rings, according to our waitress).
Dinner entrée selections are many and range in price from $12 to $25. Pizza is available, as well. Our choices included sirloin steak tips, with a flavorful marinade; a haddock dish that was one of the specials for the evening; a kobe beef burger (my daughter thought it fell apart too easily; she doesn’t quite get the “kobe” beef thing); and chicken fingers with fries from the children’s menu (just enough crunchy coating, and soft on the inside, according to our expert). The girls both agreed the fries, which are hand-cut, were top-shelf.
An extensive wine list offers a variety of interesting appellations, many available by the glass. They also have a fun martini menu.
For my favorite course, dessert, we shared a large serving of bananas foster, which was so good I wanted to lick the plate. It consisted of layers of sliced bananas, some coated and fried in a crumb covering, vanilla ice cream, slathered in caramel sauce. It was sinful! (Unfortunately for my diet, I will be a repeat offender with that dish.)
Capacity for the entire restaurant is only 85, and I’m guessing it will be tough to find a seat once the word is out. The good news is they will do call ahead seating and do take reservations.
“We’re excited to be here,” Marathas states, while noting the mix of customers sitting around the bar. “I’m hoping it’s well received and I’m hoping that we become the restaurant that Milton doesn’t have.”
Suffolk Grille is open seven days a week, and also offers lunch, served Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. Dinner is served Monday through Wednesday from 3:30 to 9 p.m., Thursday through Saturday from 3:30 to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 3 to 9 p.m. The bar side is open until 1 a.m.
For more information, contact the Suffolk Grille at (339) 237-4700, or visit www.suffolkgrille.com.